Fabric weave structure refers to the systematic interlacement of warp and weft yarns to form woven fabric. The weave pattern controls fabric appearance, strength, texture, and end use.
Basic Fabric Weave Structures
The three fundamental fabric weave structures are plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave. All decorative and complex weaves are derived from these basic structures.
1. Plain Weave
Plain weave is the simplest and most commonly used weave structure. Each warp yarn alternately passes over and under each weft yarn. This weave produces maximum interlacements, resulting in high strength and dimensional stability.
a) Warp Rib Weave
Warp rib weave is a modified plain weave where multiple weft yarns interlace with single warp yarns. This produces prominent ribs running in the warp direction. It is commonly used for decorative and furnishing fabrics.
b) Weft Rib Weave
Weft rib weave is formed by grouping warp yarns while maintaining plain interlacement in the weft direction. The ribs appear across the width of the fabric. Half-panama fabrics are typical examples.
c) Matt (Basket) Weave
Matt weave is produced by extending plain weave in both warp and weft directions. Two or more yarns work together as a unit, giving a checkerboard appearance. It is also known as basket weave or hopsack weave.
2. Twill Weave
Twill weave is characterized by diagonal lines on the fabric surface. These diagonals are formed due to step-wise shifting of interlacement points. Twill fabrics are heavier, more flexible, and have better drape than plain weave fabrics.
3. Satin and Sateen Weave
Satin weave is a basic weave structure with long floats and very few interlacements. Warp-faced satin shows warp yarns on the surface, while weft-faced sateen shows weft yarns. These fabrics are smooth, lustrous, and soft.
4. Honeycomb Weave
Honeycomb weave has a cellular structure resembling a honeycomb. The ridges and hollows increase surface area and moisture absorbency. It is widely used in towels, bathrobes, and bed covers.
5. Huck-a-Back Weave
Huck-a-back weave is a combination of plain weave and float weaves. Longer floats improve absorbency, while plain weave areas provide strength. This weave is commonly used for cotton and linen towels.
6. Waffle Weave
Waffle weave produces a three-dimensional, square-patterned surface. The structure is created through special drafting and treadling methods. Waffle fabrics are lightweight, absorbent, and quick-drying.
7. Crepe Weave
Crepe weave produces a rough or pebbled fabric surface. This effect is achieved by irregular weave patterns or hard-twisted yarns. Crepe fabrics are widely used in dresses, scarves, and decorative textiles.
8. Bedford Cord Weave
Bedford cord weave forms longitudinal ribs separated by sunken lines. It combines plain weave with additional warp ends. This weave is mainly used in suiting and upholstery fabrics.
9. Welts and Piqué Weave
Piqué weave consists of a plain fabric ground with additional stitching yarns. These stitching yarns create raised or hollow effects on the fabric surface. Piqué fabrics are commonly used in polo shirts and baby garments.
10. Mock Leno Weave
Mock leno weave imitates true leno weave without crossing warp yarns. An open and perforated appearance is produced by reversing weave units. It is used for curtains, nets, and decorative fabrics.
Conclusion
Fabric weave structures determine the functional and aesthetic properties of woven textiles. Understanding different weave types helps textile engineers select suitable fabrics for specific applications. Each weave serves a unique purpose in fabric performance and end use.